Easy Rider day 6-9: Galactic

Marble Mountains lie between Hoi An and Danang, these are quite vertical rocky looking mountains of about 300m high. On top and inside are caves with temples and Pagodas of several centuries old. The climb is steep, but the pictures are cool.

Many Buddha’s carved out of the rocks

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Funky temples

 

We ride on and when I thought I have seen the most of Ho Chi Minh Road, it turns…it turns... (I’m looking for the right word that corresponds with my emotions…. got it)

...it turns galactic.

Remember the snake wine from the Mekong Delta? In a local shop along the road I found, let’s call it, Lizard wine. Very good for ‘boom boom’, assures the shopkeeper with a grin. In other words the local Viagra hehe

*&^%$$##* thinks the lizard

In Hue at the Imperial Enclosure, a Citadel of several emperors since 1800, we’re back amongst fellow Westerners with English, German and French speaking tour guides. My hero stays behind though, watching the bags at the bike (and more importantly saving himself the entrance fee).

Chinese influence over the centuries has left her footprint especially in Northern Vietnam, as you can see for example at architecture.

Inside Hue Citadel

 

 

Quiz time:

What does not belong in this picture?

After a long ride a man’s got to do, what a man’s got to do.

We go quite a bit out of our way to see an impressive war cemetery, where ten thousands casualties of the American war are buried. It is a beautiful peaceful place with several temples. We are all alone there, which makes it also kind of special. Each grave has fresh incense on top of it and many were burning too. I was wondering what an immense job it must be to light all that incense, and whether they do that every day.

Then come two busses filled with teenaged school kids, who first had a communal Buddhist prayer and then they all go out on the cemetery to light fresh incense on the graves…

War casualties

I end the day in a hotel room with a view to think this all over

Take off to our end destination Dong Hoi.
One last look at last night’s scenic hotel

We ride towards Vinh Moc tunnels along the coast

During the American war a little village with a population of 300 people went underground and lived there for 6 years. There are 3 layers in Vinh Moc tunnels, the deepest at 23 meters below the ground. We go all the way down… very impressive to walk around these tunnels and realize people were cooking and having babies here while bombs were exploding above them.

I mention to the guide that 12 babies born during 6 years time was actually not that much. She mentions that in such a small place with 5 people staying in each tiny room, producing babies was rather awkward… Which I can somehow imagine.

Vinh Moc family loft apartment

23 meter deep…

Many things in life I understand but some things are a mystery to me. Su has a habit of filling his tank only half full of petrol every time. And then of course we are the next day or so out of petrol again, I stressfully watch the meter going deep into the red while we hope to pass a petrol station. And when we finally reach one Su rides on! I tap him on the shoulder and say: ‘Oi! We need petrol’. He then wiggles his hand and mumbles ‘not very good’. (?????)
But then again, we seem to find a ‘good station’ just in time, coz we never ran out.

We reach Dong Hoi early and during a walk along the beach I get a hint of how it must be to be David Beckham when I pass a group of teenagers. They all start screaming and each wants to go individually and in groups on a photo with me. Rather funny, and it puts a smile on my face for the rest of the day.

My fans

On the last day we ride through Phong Nha national park, the reason I wanted to go so high up in this trip. To be honest it is a bit disappointing. Phong Nha cave, the largest cave in Vietnam of approximately 50 km, could not be entered by boat because the river water was too high. Instead I walk into the dry parts, but although stunning I want more, I want the wet cave :-( (maybe I’m getting spoiled).

Phong Nha dry cave

The ride through the National park was mystical and beautiful and makes somewhat up for the missing of the wet cave.

Rocks of hundreds of meters high covered in mist towering above the road

Coming back in Dong Hoi means the Easy Rider trip has come to an end. It was a great experience, which will be locked in memory for ever. But now I am rather excited that tomorrow I’ll be staying in a luxury hotel in Hanoi and will find pizza(!) for dinner.

Bye bye motorbike and mr. Su

Easy Rider day 3 - 5: Rare jongens die Vietnamezen

Day 3 is mainly a riding day, we spend at least 6 hours riding northwards towards Kon Tum.

The usual road show today

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The usual agriculture lessons. Lesson 26: Black pepper

Lesson 45: Rubber trees

A real home coming in the ‘Family Hotel’ in Kon Tum with internet, live premiership football on tv and warm water. Hmmmmm.

The next morning I wake up 6am and stroll through town to see it come alive. In the small streets I somehow manage to lose my way. I inform with a police officer and get a deja vu of my all agreeing soldier outside Saigon.

Me: Good morning officer, lovely weather init.

Him: hmpff

Me: You know the Family hotel? F-A-M-I-L-Y-H-O-T-E-L

Him: uhm... yes!

Me: Excellent, wouldn't wanna miss breakfast hahaha. So how do I get there?

Him: uhm...

Me: Me, Famility Hotel, how? While making a walking sign with two fingers.

Him: uhm...

Me: Should I go left?

Him: Yes!

Me: Sure? Shouldn't I go right?

Him: Yes!

Me: Ok thanks.

Found it 5 minutes later

This day has the best scenic views so far.
Its a great ride

The road cuts straight through the mountains past the Cambodian and Loas border. During the war here was the famous Ho Chi Minh trail, used to move weapons by the VC. It was heavily bombed by the US, we could still see the bomb craters in the land. Several memorials here, Su told the stories, ending most sentences with a painful face saying ‘terrible’.

Ok we can’t blame the Americans for everything. This flooding was caused by the typhoon of 2 weeks ago. I guess I had good timing.

Typhoon damage

Entertaining pitstops.

*Gimme candy and give it fast!*

These VC tanks are posted here as a memorial for Charlie Hill.

Bravo1 to Bravo3: Open fire! Takatakatakatak (ok sorry)

Breathtaking views again along the way

We end the day in Phuoc Son, a small town at the end of the Highlands.

*Welcome in Puoc Son* says the water buffalo *Everybody is welcome in this town... but only few ever come out, Moooohahaha*

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Next morning on our way to Hoi An, back to civilization.

So far I haven’t seen a western person in this trip, we eat at local road restaurants, some good and some shabby. Still my stomach is coping so far.

Also most people along the way are not used of seeing anything like me (uhm, so handsome that is of course). But most of them smile, wave their hands and say helloooo, it’s all a very pleasant experience. Also, Su stops anywhere along the road to invade people homes, and they all seem quite welcoming.

A few times I am reminded that this all isn’t without danger. At a certain point we pass a road accident, where a truc (on the wrong side of the road) had hit somebody on a bike. I saw a body with a blanket over it and incense burning next to it, while people were gathering around the bus.

I’m still not used to the scenery. We all have our preferences, but long roads and natural surroundings is really my thing.

Road shot

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
We stop at a pineapple plantation for Agri lesson 256, but we don’t seem very welcome here. What to me sounds like hostile shouting and aggressive arm movements is completely ignored by Su, who says something with 1 syllable like ‘whooi’, and walks around their work yard looking for things to explain to me. I prepare for the worst, but before I know it there are smiles all around and I am invited to their lunch. Rare jongens die Vietnamezen.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

But real lunch came later

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
After lunch we pass a Cao Dausm temple. Cao Dausm is a growing Vietnamese religion or sect that basically combines Eastern and Western religions. I was lucky to be in time to see a prayer ceremony. When they are finished I look as humble and respectful as I can. I hope they are not enraged by this stranger uninvited checking them out in their temple, before you know it you’re boiled and sacrificed to the sun.
But all the priests come smiling to me, shake my hand and invite me for tea. Who would have thought..


Chau Dau priest

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Ending the day in Hoi An a beautiful town in French colonial architecture, where suddenly there are loads of tourists.

Easy Rider Day 2: Tropical thunderstorm

The night chased away the loneliness and day two starts in high spirits.
We go into Lac Lake village to meet more ethnic minorities. Well, we actually invade their space shamelessly. Mr. Su is quite a character, far from shy I'd say. He walks through their backyards like he owns the place, ordering them around and explaining to me what they are doing. He also tries to hook me up with any single girl we meet. He knows I have Immy, but I guess he sees anyone who is not married as single.
This morning felt quite special, all these people were very welcoming and warm, I really got an idea how they live.

90 years young

Making some sort of rice wine (agriculture lesson 14)

Girl talk (and correct Gerry, the one on the right is the single one)

*Please go away scary man* thinks the little girl

Elephant ride, you can’t live without.

Now you might think, pfff an elephant ride, been there, done it.

But did your elephant also swim across a lake? Well mine did, much to my astonishment (I nearly jumped off).

*land ahoi*

Time to head further north

We reach the Dry Nur waterfalls during a heavy heavy rain session. Su stays behind with warm soup and coffee while I fight the elements.

It is a bit like Mario Brothers... first you have to cross this bridge with a few loose planks before you get any goodies.

But I lived to tell the story...

It is a powerful sight.

While some people are having coffee (Su), and others pretend they're working (yes you!), I am getting completely soaked by some tropical thunderstorm

Enough adventure for one day, we rush for our end destination Dac Lac, where we have BBQed goat for dinner. Funny detail is that this restaurant only serves goat (BBQ goat, fried goat, boiled goat, goat pie, goat juice, I think you get the idea), and nothing else not even rice.

Hot pot goat, not bad at all

Easy Rider 9 day motorbike trip

Next travel ingredient will be a road adventure. Since my one day trip to the Cu Chi tunnels, I’ve dropped the idea of riding a motorbike alone to find any good spots in this country. I will probably need 2 years time and a fast track Vietnamese language training to make it a success.

However, a guy I spoke to in Saigon mentioned a group called Easy Riders. They are Vietnamese guides who operate from Dalat, a town in the mountains 300km to the north, and guide you by motorbike to any desired location, also tell you background stories and introduce you to local minorities.

Sounded exactly like what the doctor ordered, so this has now been booked and arranged.

After a long ponder, I decided to choose the sit-at-the-back-and-look–around option rather than riding my own motorbike. This way I can focus more on my surroundings than on traffic, I’m on holiday after all. And it is most likely safer too.

I tailored one of the longer trails around distance wise, which will go from Dalat to Dong Hoi in North Vietnam. It will pass all the amazing nature Central Vietnam has to offer, including history lessons my Easy Rider will provide, and sleeping at great locations no tourist would find himself. Hopefully we can finish it in 9 days. On average we will ride 200km per day, and the road passes through the mountains and villages allowing an average speed of 50km per hour.

Dalat 22 October 7:30am I meet my Easy Rider Su. He speaks excellent English, sells his pitch good (wants quite some $$$) and we agree a potential route to follow.

Off we go.

Easy Rider tour Day 1: From Dalat to Lac lake

Mr Su ready for take off.















We leave Dalat, a city in the mountains, mainly known for all the local vegetables and fruit.
On the back of the motorcycle I’m part of my surroundings and inhale the fantastic mountain environment.

Our first stop after a few hours ride is at a minority family. We give the kids candy (candy is worth its weight in gold around here) and Su tells me about their ways of living. They seem surprisingly relaxed of this stranger invading their house.

A minority pig is also having a look.

During lunch, where we had the barbequed sister of the fatso in the picture above, Su tells me more about the Easy Rider background in Dalat. He explains that there are now also Free Riders, Local Riders, Lone Riders etc. They all stole the trick and the hotspots from them, the Easy Riders, and it’s all so unfair. And if I do this internet thing, tell everybody never to go on a trip with mr. Luu as he indecently tried to touch a female guest. So here you go: To hell with mr. Luu everybody!

To me it sounds a bit like the movie Life of Brian, where you had the People’s Front of Judea, Judea’s Peoplefront etc. and they all hated each others guts. But eh, we all have our own blues.

Pit stop along the way.

We use time efficiently. Su drops me off at an interesting spot and rides on to smoke a cigarette. I then stroll towards him, in this case via a market along the road.

Everywhere we stop Su tells a background story. I soon realize he is especially an expert on agriculture. He tells me later he used to work as a farmer.

Agriculture lesson 1: Su explains how brown rice is grown.

Agriculture lesson 2: how to make fish traps

We are near our end destination with a bizarre sky.

On my right side a threatening rain storm is rushing our way.

And on my left side an amazing sunset

We check in in a lovely lakeside hotel, where there is no electricity due to a power cut. I now understand mr. Su’s face when I said this morning I would prefer to stay only in hotels with WIFI internet.
Sitting in the dark trying to read my book with mozzies circling around me, realization kicks in what sort of trip this is going to be. And I can’t deny I feel a little alone right here and now.