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Friday, December 4

Chiang Mai Part Two: animals galore *by Immy*

Chiang Mai offers so much in the way of activities that we decide to extend our stay by another night. It is still far too little time to manage to do everything we want, so we discard the idea of watching Muay Thai Boxing and going on a night safari. We push Ro’s cultural tolerance to the limit by venturing to yet another temple. The Wat Phra That Doi Suthep temple is reputed to be beautiful, and an attractive pilgrimage for many Thai’s to worship at, as well as admire its beauty. Unfortunately the temple is undergoing major construction work, and is shrouded by scaffolding, so it looks somewhat less majestic than we had anticipated.
Structural work detracts from the splendor of Wat Suthep.



















Thai pilgrims at Wat Suthep.


Cultural expeditions well and truly exhausted (Ro breathes a long sigh of relief), an afternoon of zip-lining ensues. For the uninitiated, that comprises of being harnessed to wires/ ziplines and gliding between platforms in the treetops at the highest point of a forest, some 45 meters above solid ground. It is exhilarating, and quite a rush, though perhaps a bit tame for the most seasoned adrenaline junkies.

An interesting mode of transport, 45 meters above ground.


I think we deserve some sort of recognition for the amount of waterfalls we’ve visited… by now we must be somewhere near double figures. Now some of these supposed waterfalls are in fact more like bubbling streams masquerading as waterfalls, while others are crashing cascading waterfalls that belong on postcards. Keeping up with our regular waterfall slot, we pay a visit to Mae Sa Waterfall. This is an impressive beast of a waterfall, comprising of ten separate falls which we reach via a pleasant secluded walk. Most people congregate by the 1st to 4th falls, perhaps put off by the length of the walk to get to the 10th fall. Having completed a three hour uphill mountain trek only days earlier, we feel invincible, so a few paltry steps is no mean feat for us. We are compelled to get to the 10th fall, and are rewarded accordingly by a breath-taking sight.

One of Mae Sa’s ten falls.


I’m keen to see the Sunday Walking Street, in which a road becomes pedestrianized from 4pm to midnight with the sole purpose of enabling hawkers to sell their wares. I am not disappointed by the vast array of crafts, and am determined to find a pretty bracelet, but end up buying several, as each one is more colourful and beautiful than the last. They currently all sit at the bottom of my suitcase alongside the abandoned camera.
We’re pleased to discover most products display a clearly marked price tag, which is rare for markets typically frequented by tourists, where the venders tend to double if not treble the price for non Thai folk, and ask for as much baht as they think they can get, regardless of the items’ actual value. The onus is on the buyer to negotiate a more reasonable price, something that Ro is far more proficient at than I.

Dancers entertain the crowds on Sunday Walking Street.















Mae Sa offers much entertainment for the tourist who is not shy about parting with their money. We are riveted by a snake show and sit in a near trance watching the snake handlers dance skillfully past a Python’s darting forked tongue. I quickly realize that Ro appears not to be quite as entranced as I am, when a snake comes flying in our direction. Ro vanishes from his seat in an instant. There’s a puff of dust from his departing shoes, and he beats a hasty retreat to the safety of a seat several rows back. The snake turns out to be a twisted length of rope, but I must draw attention to Ro’s considerate efforts to protect his poor girlfriend from the venom of the Python, leaving me alone in the front row, frozen in shock! He won’t be nominated for any awards for bravery…

Ro is uncertain about his new friend


I’m definitely a cat person, and will always make time to coo over a fluffy long-haired cat, or blue-eyed kitten. However this is the first time big cats have entered the equation. I’m fond of cute cuddly kittens who purr contentedly while having their tummies rubbed, but I have never previously experienced this with a feline who doesn’t fit in my arms. Enter the tiger! Ro and I sign away our lives by entering a tigers’ cage to stroke three large cats. There is a surreal moment beforehand when we are required to sign a disclaimer confirming we will not sue the Tiger Kingdom in the event of injury (mauling by a ferocious cat?) and we take full responsibility for choosing to go into the tigers’ cage. Somehow I can’t imagine our travel insurance paying our medical bills if we get savaged.
We creep hesitantly into the lions’ den so to speak, both trying to stand behind the other lest the tigers feel hungry at that very instant. We’re flanked by three staff from the Tiger Kingdom, who approach the tigers first, and then encourage us to stroke these beautiful creatures. I’m enthralled – I’ve found my perfect Christmas present! Within minutes my fear has evaporated and I’m hugging these giant cats, confident that they’re too busy ripping coconuts to shreds to have time for an Immy sandwich.
Ro is far less comfortable however, and although he touches the cats, he prefers to maintain a safe distance. I’m reminded of his quick reaction to the flying snake, and am under no illusion that I’m on my own if the tiger turns in our direction.

My new pet?















A monkey school is located beside the snake and tiger establishments, so we trot along for a look. It is a horrible experience, and I feel quite upset by the treatment of the monkeys. They are all chained to stakes in the ground and can only move a foot in either direction. The staff at the monkey school assure us they are unchained after 5pm, but I can’t think beyond their daytime confinement. A monkey show comprises of a monkey riding a bicycle and a tuk tuk, pushing a small cart etc, all the time being led around on a chain by its handler. I’m far from impressed. If the monkey were really so well trained there should be no need for these heavy chains. The treatment of a tiny 2 year old monkey who is just undergoing training is abhorrent – the monkey is clearly terrified, and I suspect some pain is being inflicted by the handler. I want to cuddle the monkey, and ensure it has a better quality of life. Can I add a monkey to my Christmas wish list too?

Monkey enduring very restricted movement range















We are going to Hua Hin to relax by the coast with Ro’s friends for a few days before we must part company. My time in Thailand is running out and I will be returning far too soon to the cold winds and rain of London. I have loved my month in the sun with Ro, and I wonder how I will manage without him and the sunshine for the next few weeks. I hope you have enjoyed the brief interlude from Ro’s writing, he will be back with the Hua Hin update and will resume full responsibility for all future blog updates!

Ro continues his adventures alone.